In the yr after World War II , most of Europe was devastated , both physically and financially . From this drab world , one country began producing brilliant , technicolor textiles , including a print which bolstered its saving , created interior pride , and ended up becoming one of the mostbeloved and recognizable patternsin the world .
The postwar outlook was specially blur for the tiny nation of Finland . The land had actually oppose three wars : one against Germans and two against the Soviet Union , which resulted in grant some of their Din Land , include two of their port wine , to the U.S.S.R. In the life of rebuilding the area economically , house physician wanted to buy local — not an easy chore as the fabrication godsend had not yet reach the Norse country and most people still made their bread and butter from farming .
As a Finland - found party that bring industrialization to the nation with a bold , future - forward mission , a bantam material company namedMarimekkolaunched at the accurate right time . Marimekko in reality begin its life as Printex , a fabric and oilcloth company bought by Armi Ratia and her hubby Viljo . Ratia notice that most of the fabric orders at the time were destined for draperies and tablecloths , so she retrieve that she could expand the line with vibrant , au courant prints which could also be used to make habiliment .
The first Marimekko way show , in 1951
Ratia start recruiting Finnish artist and textile designers , such as Maija Isola and Vuokko Nurmesniemi , to create patterns that became roll in the hay for their nonfigurative form and bright colors .
A style show hold in May of 1951 at a Helsinki restaurant host the introduction of her melody Marimekko , which translate to “ Mary ’s dress ” in Finnish . The dresses were a hit , and the first Marimekko retail store opened the next year . Ratia reportedly typed the Holy Writ on an Olivetti typewriter to create the logo .
A photoshoot for the cover of Life , 1965
The fabric was sold at stores by the yard ( on bolt branded with the fashion designer ’s name , yr , and “ Finland ” ) , but Ratia also continued to tap designers to produce clothing line . This acquire into a stark release from the more structured dresses of the 1950s . The pieces were free - form and comfy , in a way that ushered in the spirit , cushy fashions of the ’ 60s .
The original Unikko colorway , designed in 1964
This new look became an almost anti - depressive prescription to help the land issue from under the rubble of warfare : Marimekko was pure day - clear up , mood - altering happiness . But none of the patterns would become as popular as Unikko ( “ poppy ” ) , which debuted in 1964 .
By that meter Isola had join the company as master textile fashion designer . The story is that Isola created the conception out of dissent after Ratia declare that Marimekko would never have a floral print .
It would end up becoming a key signature design for the companionship , ubiquitous throughout Finland , and one of the most well - known patterns in the world .
Traveling the world for divine guidance , Isola often find her genus Mus in the theater of operations and timber of the instinctive world . Many of herprints were createdby projecting leaves and branches on to a filmdom and photographing the shapes , adding additional hand - paint elements on giant reams of paper at actual size .
Isola move on to design 500 prints for Marimekko , many of which have been re - released in late years . Unikko was first uncommitted in ruby , pink and black , but apace expand to a mixed bag of other colorways , and can be found made into everything from sheets to shower down curtains .
Marimekko quickly become a calling card for Finnish fashion all over the existence . In 1957 , Giorgio Armani invite Ratia tosell her clothes at an Italian department store , expose Marimekko to an outside consultation . The brand was brought to the U.S. by designer Ben Thompson , who sell habiliment and housewares at hispopular Design Research(D / R ) stores .
In December of 1960 , Jacqueline Kennedy was featured on the cover of Sports Illustrated , which rack up the stands just after her husband ’s successful presidential election political campaign . She assume a red sleeveless Marimekko wearing apparel she buy at D / roentgen , and had reportedly bought six more .
That was really all the ship’s company really needed to become a runaway achiever in the U.S. Retail stores opened here and in several other urban center around the human race .
A Marimekko retail store today
Even with the worldwide impulse , as Marimekko ’s clothes and fabrics were featured on the covers of magazines like Life , Elle and Vogue , the company was plagued byinternal battle and high production costs .
Then Ratia died in 1979 , just as Marimekko was about to face its greatest challenge . In the 1980s , as the Cold War ended , Finland suffered a financial crisis that last into the nineties . As one of the only non - easterly Bloc country to divvy up a border with the U.S.S.R. , they had profit from a special craft agreement with the nation . As the U.S.S.R. collapsed , and the country now known as Russia began import from other country , Finland ’s economy bumble .
Marimekko was bought by a tumid conglomerate which could n’t sprain around its trouble . Ratia ’s heirs essay to come up , but Marimekko was brought to the verge of failure . Until it was , by many accounts , deliver by advertizement exec Kirsti Paakkanen , who take over operations in 1991 .
partnership include Unikko licensing deals with Converse and Manolo Blahnik
By bringing in young designers and reposition the company , Marimekko now has partnerships with Crate & Barrel , H&M , Converse , and Manolo Blahnik that help to surrender the prints to the next contemporaries . article of clothing and fabrics were have onSex and the City . ( I presuppose Carrie Bradshaw , in her own way , was like the Jackie - O of her day . )
Paakkanen slowly pass over a revitalized fellowship to banker Mika Ihamuotila in 2008 .
Unikko umbrellas outside the New York City flagship in 2011
In 2010 Marimekko open a flagship depot in New York City , and today counts over 125 memory board and licensed retailers . In 2012 the mark debuted its collections at Tokyo Fashion Week for the first time . A social mesh calledMarimekko Villagewas found , which come along to invoke straight to the Pinterest crowd . The company is currently in the midst of reorganise again and look for a newinternational creative theater director .
Marimekko was able to bring Finland ’s talents in front of a internal hearing , gaining global recognition for the tiny Nordic population . But it also create a real horse sense of pride within the country itself : Marimekko helped to cement Finland ’s condition as a design - savvy civilisation , along with other companies like Artek and Iittala . The brand proceed to nurture and push Finnish creative person across a blanket range of products , process as a goodwill ambassador of sorts , with a mission that Ratia once call “ a ethnic phenomenon guiding the timber of living . ”
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vfo6pzfKtkk
In honor of Unikko ’s 50th natal day , Marimekko is rolling out anew serial of productsincluding some new color combination . A half century afterwards , it looks as fresh and present-day as it did emerging from Isola ’s paintbrush .
Although not everyone make out the history behind the pattern they might have first encountered on an auntie ’s handbag or a girlfriend ’s pillowcase , Unikko last as one of the substantially - known patterns on earth . And for those who teach its pedigree , the connexion becomes unforgettable .
Marimekko put Finland on the map , with an indelible bright red blossom .
All images courtesy Marimekko , except Isola : Scandinavian Design Museum ; Sports Illustrated : Helsinki.ru ; Life magazine spread : Cathy of California / Marimekko
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